10/29/2011

How To: Wood Block Photo Transfers


This project is so simple and fun! You can do it on the cheap by knabbing leftover scraps of wood from hardware stores and sneaking in a couple photo copies at the office. They make great small gifts and decorations. I chose images with sayings as well as photographic images. When using text make sure to flip the image before you print it or it will come out backward. Other than that, go wild.


YOU'LL NEED:

Blocks of wood in various sizes, Photo Copies (use copy machine or laser prints), Liquitex Gel Medium, Mod Podge, Large Bristle Brush, Sponge or cloth.

Link
STEPS:

1. Paint a thin layer of gel medium over the surface where you plan to place the photo. Make sure your wood blocks are sanded. No one likes splinters full of glue!


2. Lay the photo copy face down onto the gelled block and smooth it out to remove any air bubble.

3. Let the block(s) dry overnight.

4. Use a damp cloth or sponge to wipe away the paper. The black ink from the photo copy should remain. ( Use the soft side of a sponge. The rougher side will scrape the image away if you're not careful.)

5. Paint a thin layer of Mod Podge over the surface of the transferred image to seal it in.

These make fun paper weights, desk or shelf decorations and gifts. Once the image is sealed, you can finish off the block by painting, staining or varnishing the other sides. If you liked this project you might also be interested in making packing tape stickers. Until next time :)

10/24/2011

The Best Holiday Shopping In Rochester


Mark your calendars for my favorite art market! Mayday Underground is back again this fall at the Main Street Armory. Tons of great vendors (including myself) will be selling great handmade items just in time for the holidays. In addition the ladies of Mayday are exhibiting artwork (including mine) at The Root of Art and Craft, also in the Armory. Get a preview of the offerings in this slide show.

10/20/2011

What Is Handmade Worth?

More than you think!

Holiday shopping season is on its way. After the lists, budget figuring and shopping plans (because you seriously need a strategy these days), I hope you are considering buying handmade. You know the perks, but the big stumbling block every time is..."Well I would if I could afford it."

Handmade is like the 'organic-free range-sustainably packaged-food' of the world of goods. It costs more. But you know what? It's worth more.

The article below, shared by my friends at Mayday Undergound, and copied directly from What The Craft (in purple text) is one of the best articles I have read explaining WHY. Read this if you're still a wary consumer. You're probably grossly underestimating our workload. Read this too if you're a handmade seller. You're probably (almost definitely) underpricing!

“$70 for a t-shirt?!”

“I love your website, but everything on it is overpriced!”

“Your stuff is too expensive.”

“Are you rich or something?”

“I could make that for $5.”

“Sorry, but that’s a rip-off.”

“$80 for a hoodie? You’re not Gucci.”

I’ve heard it all. At first it hurt my feelings and made me worry that my prices were too high. Now it only baffles me that someone would say something so rude. This is my job. It may not be like your job. I don’t have a boss or regular hours, and I don’t have to drive to work or even get dressed for it (heh), but this is how I pay the bills.

I’m always tempted to asked these people, “How about I come down to where you work and tell your boss you’re overpaid?” Because that’s essentially what they’re saying.

But I’m too polite to do that.

Instead I decided to write this article to shed some light on the work that all of us that run a handmade business are doing… including all the behind-the-scenes stuff you probably never even think about. (And that some of us don’t charge for.)

Sure, some people will still be rude doucheballoons. That’s life. But maybe I can just make a few people think, “Oh, I hadn’t realized how much work goes into that!”

[Note: If you are a handmade seller looking for guidelines on how to price your items, please don't use this article as a model for your own pricing. As you'll see below, I'm a hypocrite when it comes to not underpricing. Please do as I say and not as I do. Read this guide for pricing instead, if that's what you're looking for.]


Step 1: The design phase



I sketch most of my ideas before I start cutting. Sometimes it’s completely spontaneous. I just start doodling and see where it takes me. Other times I have exactly what it will look like all planned out, and I want to get it down on paper so I don’t forget anything.

It’s usually just a quick scribble of pen or pencil on paper. Other times I take more time. I’ll add color with colored pencils or do the sketch 4 or 5 times before nailing down a particular design.

Since most of my sketches are quick, we’ll say the total time spent sketching one piece is 5 minutes.


As you can see, my sewing skills do not translate to pencil and paper skills.


Sketching: 5 minutes


Step 2: The drafting phase

Unlike a commercial outfit, I don’t have each of my patterns drawn up in every single size. For custom orders, I redraft my pattern each time to match the customer’s measurements, because I’m not a fan of “standard” sizing.

Likewise, even for non-custom pieces, I don’t have patterns for each possible combination of styles I make. I get bored easily, so I prefer to make one of a kind designs. For example, I have a single t-shirt pattern that I customize depending on whether or not I’m making a tank top, a hoodie, or a tee. I don’t have one scoopneck pattern, one v-neck pattern, and one crewneck pattern. I have one pattern for a t-shirt that I change each time I use it, depending on what I’m making.


Random tip: I like using old Tyvek envelopes for patterns because it won't rip!

This shirt is pretty simple, so it only took about 15 minutes


Step 3: The cutting phase

This is another step that varies from piece to piece. My fairytale coats take at least 2 hours to cut because there are so many pieces. A simple tube top might take me 20 minutes. A zip-up hoodie takes an hour or more.


Start snipping!


Again, this one is pretty simple, so it only took 30 minutes


Step 4: The sewing phase

The most time consuming of all the steps, but one that also varies depending on an item. The formal dresses on my site, like the Nightshade dress, can take more than a full day to assemble. Same with the coats. A tube top takes 30 minutes, but a hoodie takes 3 hours.



This one took about an hour and 15 minutes. 75 minutes



Step 5: The photo phase

I usually make a big batch of items and photograph them all at once to make it easier. Because photos are The Most Important part of selling an item online, I like to be thorough. I generally take a modeled photo, a photo on the dressform, and a detail shot of the item laying flat.

This is one of the few steps that pretty much takes the same time, no matter what. I spend about 20 minutes on hair and makeup. Photographing 15 clothing items takes about 3 hours. Dividing the whole 3 hours and 20 minutes by 15 gives us 13 minutes per item.


Photographing the item: 13 minutes


Step 6: The measuring, weighing, and inspection phase

Before I put the completed items on the garment racks to wait to be sold, I measure and weigh each piece. I also take this time to inspect each one for any detail I might have missed before: stray threads, a skipped stitch, etc. Then they get a good going over with the lint roller and are put away.


Measuring, weighing, double-checking: 5 minutes


Step 7: The photo editing phase

The most tedious phase of all. I have to pick through all the modeled shots I take and find the ones where I’m not making a stupid face, blinking, or blurry. I adjust the light and color balance, crop, resize, and I add my watermark.


Editing the photos for one piece takes 30 minutes.


Step 8: The listing phase

When I add an item to my website, I have to upload the photos, write the listing description, and decide on a price. If I also list the item in my Artfire and Etsy shop, I can copy most of that information, but it still takes time. It probably takes about 10-15 minutes to complete the original listing and 5-10 more minutes each time I relist in one of my other venues. But for simplicity’s sake, let’s just say 15 minutes.

Listing an item: 15 minutes


Step 9: The marketing phase

Listing isn’t enough. The second most important component of selling an item online (photos being most important, as I mentioned before) is promotion. If you don’t get the word out, no one will know your stuff is there! For the time it takes me to promote one item on the various social networking sites, 20 minutes is a conservative estimate. (This doesn’t even take into account if I actually purchase advertising.)

Marketing an item: 20 minutes


Step 10: The shipping phase

Once an item sells, I have to get it packed up and ready to ship. I spend about 5 minutes tagging and folding and another 5 minutes packaging and labeling. Then I email a shipping notification to the customer.

Note: Most sellers actually drive your package all the way to the post office and stand in line. They’re not only spending time doing that, but they’re spending money on gas. I didn’t figure that into my calculations because I print my labels at home and have the post office pick my packages up, but for some sellers, this is a big Time Hog.

Packing and shipping: 10 minutes


Grand total
Sketching: 5 minutes
Drafting: 15 minutes
Cutting: 30 minutes
Sewing: 75 minutes
Photographing: 13 minutes
Measuring: 5 minutes
Photo-editing: 30 minutes
Listing: 15 minutes
Marketing: 20 minutes
Shipping: 10 minutes


218 minutes or 3 hours and 38 minutes.

My “goal” wage right now is $20 an hour. I used to use $10 as my goal, and then I realized one day that I could go get quite a few entry level jobs at that rate, and I’m not doing an entry level job. I have 8 years of experience and skill. $20 is a much more appropriate wage for skilled labor.

(And for those that think $20 is a huge wage, a full time job at that wage is equivalent to a salary of a little over $40,000 a year before taxes. Middle class in the US by every standard. On top of that, there’s no sick pay, vacation time, retirement or health insurance. After all of those expenses, it’s quite a bit closer to a lower middle class salary.)

At $20 an hour, this top cost $73 to make. That’s only time/labor, of course. Materials for this top cost $18, bringing our total to $91. Now go see what it’s actually listed for on my website.

Yep… $75. Less if it sells during a sale. With materials and overhead, I’m not actually making my goal wage, as you can see. With just materials taken out, I’m actually making about $17 an hour.

Now I’m busted. Those of you who know me will have no doubt heard me preaching about the evils of undercharging, yet here I am committing the cardinal sin myself. For shame!

I mentioned overhead: there’s a TON of time I spend doing extraneous things not counted on this list. Responding to customer emails is a huge one. Every time someone asks a question about an item, it’s another 5 minutes, at least. For the average custom order, I spend at least an hour emailing back and forth with a customer. Probably more like two or three usually.

I have to order fabric and supplies. I have to clean and oil my machines. I have to vacuum all the little bits of thread and lint off the carpet in my studio. None of my overhead is ever counted into my prices (cost of machines, computers, utility bills, seller fees, rent and utilities). If I counted all that, I probably am making more like $10 an hour.

When you buy a top at Walmart, someone was paid a decent wage to design the top ONCE, and then a person halfway across the world was paid a few cents an hour to make 1000 of them. Total time and materials for a single top at Walmart is maybe $3. If they sell it for $15, they’re marking it up FIVE TIMES the cost.

My stuff isn’t marked up at all, and neither are most handmade artisan goods. Even so, our time is more expensive than a sweatshop worker. But when you buy handmade instead of buying from a corporate giant, you’re getting a lot of things from us that they can’t offer. Handmade means we care about quality and attention to detail. Sweatshop workers care about one thing: make it as fast as possible. Handmade means we care about customer service. All corporations care about is that green stuff in your wallet. Handmade means you’re helping the local economy. Corporations mean you’re helping some rich greedy jerk get even richer.

So the next time you’re going to open your yapper about the price of someone’s handmade goods, think before you speak. (And if you’re still tempted to be a jackass, then at least remember the Golden Rule and keep it to yourself.)

*** I’d like to take a moment to thank all of my kickass customers, who are NOT the people that make the comments at the beginning of this post. With their support and appreciation, I am able to do something I love.

10/10/2011

In Progress...For the Root of Art and Craft

It's deer hunting season in New York. What a good time to complete a deer related work of art! This is a piece that has been in the works for over a year now, but with the help of coffee and a deadline on my butt I will make it happen NOW. I am currently encrusting the skull plate of a deer for an art exhibit in conjunction with MayDay Underground this November 5th, called The Root of Art and Craft. A little textile work will be added after that.


I have been working with deer, antler and hunting imagery since my BFA thesis at The Cleveland Institute of Art in 2006. I also got my Ohio hunting license and antler tattoos along the way. Thrown in there (with purposeful research and intent) is some Religious/Vodou imagery as well.

Lot's of coffee to be had this week! It's due Monday!

10/04/2011

Excuse me. Are you Helen?

I get a lot of questions about the origin of the word "buenahelena" at shows. I also get a lot of people who think my name is Helen. (For the record, it's Carol, after seveties singer/songwriter Carole King.) The name buenahelena came about when I was a teen in the late nineties who really loved Spanish class and needed a cool sounding AIM handle. It stuck and I still love the way it sounds.

So, for my new business cards I wanted to poke fun at the misconceptions of the name.


I'm so excited to put these out during the holiday season at shows and in packages :)